Flagg`s Fillie`s

[flagg]

Its the way i tell em

[flagg]

Heres a pic of Teresa who nearly died .. she is just over a foot tall while the other 3 are over 3ft. She just sits in the corner because theres no room under the lamp .. doubt she will flower properly with having so little light so when the others have flowered going to put her under the lamp on her own and re veg her. Her leaves are green its just the shitty pic thats making her that colour .. as is the pics of the other 3 which arent good enough to post.

[Weedguru Higher]

Hmm...the tips of your leaves are curling down and under on the top of that plant....it's called claw leaves.

I can't really tell in the pic..are all the leaves on the plant doing that or just the top ones?

[flagg]

Just the top ones of that one .. the others are ok apart from two or three leaves with burnt spots

[Weedguru Higher]

It's most likely caused by pH drop in your medium. Calcium is used in new growth and becomes fixed, so any deficiencies will show in top leaves and buds.(The only Ca def that would show on old leaves would be a bit of browning of serration tips.) In other plants besides cannabis a major symptom of Ca def is top leaves clawing down. This is from calcium in the edges of the new leaves being translocated to the more important bud growing regions. The edges don't grow or grows slow, while the center of the leaf continues to grow. Unused Nitrogen at this stage of flower could accentuate it by causing more growth and therefore more claw, but extra N usually means longer inter nodal spacing and lankier growth.

It's easily cured by a flush and be sure to finish the flush with new nutes. New growth should be flattened out.

(This bringing the pH back to normal by flushing away the nutes and salts that are lowering it is what got me thinking this. [Nitrogen is not controlled by pH. Except that at too low pH it's reduced in soil where the plant is dependent on microbes to break down the organic matter, they may die off(at low pH) and don't release new N to the plant, and at high pH N volatilizes.] Once the pH is back in acceptable range the calcium that your nutes or soil already has plenty of, is made available again.)

[flagg]

I will try that .. just been looking at them and dead disapointed with the stretch .. looks like only the tops will have enough light for reasonable buds .. if that happens im only going to grow one at a time until i can buy a 400 watt lamp .. being pessamistic might turn out better tho uh lol .. thanks for your help mate

[Weedguru Higher]

You could do LST or SCROG

check this out

http://www.weedguru.com/forum/viewtopic ... 88&t=26607

I did a SCROG grow in my grow box the first time and had awesome results. On every other grow since in that box I did LST . Keeps em down and bushy

[flagg]

That looks interesting .. would have to be completly sober to try it out tho because at the momment it looks way complicated

[Weedguru Higher]

Nah, there's nothing complicated about it. If you're doing LST you're just bending branches down and tying them with string. Scrog is just letting a plant grow into a screen. You might have to do a bit of tying to get the branches to grow in the direction you want, that's all

You could actually do some LST on those plants right now if you wanted to get them to bush out more

If you think you might like to try it I could give you some tips

[flagg]

Well im glad youve said that because im running out of space .. can only lift lamp another 2ft if that.

[Weedguru Higher]

Are those pots plastic or ceramic?

If they are plastic you can drill holes around the top of the pot to make a place to anchor your strings too.



If you can't do that, then you can just tie the strings around the base of your stem. Either way you will most likely need to counter tie like in the below pic or your plant will be crooked

Low stress training is done by tricking the plant into thinking the apical tips are no longer able to be the apical tips. In nature, if a branch gets blocked by another branch, or a large leaf from another tree, the plant will do it's best to navigate the growing tip so that it can continue growing upwards.

If, however, the plant cannot easily find a way to make that growing tip go back towards the light, the level of auxins will shift, and the lower sites will be called upon to try and stretch up to become the next apical tip.

This process can be repeated over, and over again in our controlled, indoor environments: apical tip grows up, apical tip trained down, other tips grow up, other tips tied down, more tips up, and so on.

So all you need to do is pull the top of the plant down lower than the rest of the plant like I have encircled in red



Where exactly on the plant that you start pulling down and how tight you pull down depends how bendable your stem is

I'd say somewhere around here would be a good place to start. But if your stem is bendable enough, a node down would be better..but it looks pretty far down so I doubt it



You gotta adjust your strings everyday pretty much, pulling them tighter and pulling the main cola all the way down eventually. Don't try and bend your stem all the way down all at once, you gotta do it gradually or it will break. Like I said, this depends how woody your stem is

The smaller lower shoots will then start growing as main tops, creating multiple colas



Start of gently like this



And gradually pull it down more like this



Adding more strings and tying down more branches if necessary



You can train it for as much as you like for as long as you like. You can get a really large canopy of colas that doesn't take up much height. You can make your stem twist and bend into loops, corkscrews...anything. I made mine wrap around the pot like you see in these images encircled in red







This is the same plant as those above pics about 4 weeks into flowering



It's hardly the same plant eh??

[flagg]

Amazing that last pic .. im going to try that .. il tie the three down facing each other like 3 little japanese ladies bowing to each other .. but better still next time i be able to do it from the beginning when they are smaller .. i should be able to know on monday or abouts if they are boys or girls .. one more thing the stems are thick and unbendable so will only be able to bend bout eight inches from the top but its cool knowing that theres no harm in it

[Weedguru Higher]

That's fine for now. You'll slowly be able to bend it more over time. You gradually pull the strings tighter everyday couple days or so, forcing it to bend more and more

And ya it's best if you do it when they are babies

[flagg]

Disaster here .. first one i tried to bend has snapped .. but heres the peculiar thing , she has collapsed more than snapped , i mean they all seem to be hollow .. that cant be right can it ? .. ive sellotaped the collapse dont know if it will work.

[Weedguru Higher]

How far down did it snap, can you get a pic? If it's not like way far down then it could be turned into a good thing.... It would be just like topping a plant which is another training technique to get bushy plants. Of course all this means more vegging time, but it'll payoff bigtime come harvest. You could create a huge canopy of colas like you see in that pic above if you wanted.

BTW...I've snapped several too and they have always recovered fine

And ya they can be hollow....not sure what the reason is though